From: musjndx@gsusgi2.gsu.edu (Jonathan N. Deitch)
Subject: Fix It hints (long ramble)
Date: Sat, 26 Feb 1994 01:47:19 GMT

Ok guys ... here's a bunch of hints I've decided to ramble on about ...

Realize the majority of my experience is Williams/Bally whirlwind to
the present, so that's what I'm restricting myself to ...

Flippers :

Make sure the little piece of rubber that hits the EOS switch doesn't
wear through -- the metal post will cut a hole in the end of the EOS
switch, causing the flipper to stick.  Replace the whole crank ... they
don't cost much.

Replace your flipper sleaves and coil stops frequently -- they're less
expensive that coils and cranks.

Make sure the paper wrapper stays on the flipper (and any other) coil
as this will help keep the wires from getting damaged.

Use the spacing guage in the spare parts bag to set the spacing between the
crank and the bottom of the bushing ... this will prevent binding or exces-
sive looseness (both of which will wear out the crank and sleeve).

Replace the coil if a new sleeve won't slide easily into it -- this means
it has expanded from heat and will bind a crank sliding through it.

Flipper circuits (WPC games) :

Weak flippers that are mechanically fine ... replace the TIP36C darlington
and its TIP120 driver for that flipper.   A weak TIP36C may leak slightly
causing both warm coils and weak flips.

Weak flippers with new transistors ... check the optos on the flipper
cabinet switches and U4/U6 on the fliptronic II board (a LM339) as a
weak or leaking LM339 (quad voltage comparator) can cause a bad flipper
flip.

Switches :

Non-functional switch ... check the diode.  Replace it.  With a 1N4004.

Check the column driver (ULN-2803) on the CPU board.

Obviously, you should also check the wiring first ... make damn sure the
RIGHT wires are connected ... cross connected columns and rows can cause
all kinds of havoc.

If its a microswitch, they do go bad too ...

Lamps, flashers, and coils :

If wires and diodes and all are all ok (and the coil isn't burnt out) you
likely blew a driver transistor ... check the manual for location and
replace it.  It'll be on the power driver board or (in the case of the
wide body games) on an auxillary board.

Care and feeding :

All pivoting points should be oiled, with the exception of flippers.  This
means the hinged points on ball launchers, trough poppers, slingshots,
and similar mechanisms.  Use 3-in-1 light machine oil.

Check your flipper and other coils every now and then ... replace any worn
sleeves and wipe down the shafts.  Replace any coils that are binding.

Rotate your flipper rubbers when the tips get worn and use rubber cleaner
(RC-88 from Wildcat) every time you clean the playfield.

Don't forget to clean the balls too, or simply replace them.  New balls
are only $1.25 each or so.

Be sure to level the game left-right (use a carpenter's level on the upper
and lower parts of the playfield) as well as a 6.5 degree slope.  Best way
to set the slope is to visit your distrubutor and purchase one of those
nifty slope bubbles Williams put on each game from TAF to IJ.

Playfield cleaning :

Diamondplate finishes are essentially sealed in plastic.  I use Novus
plastic polish #2.  Novus #2 is also good on mylar.  Spread it on and buff
it in like car wax.  Let dry, and buff off.  Change cloth frequently to
get clean cloth on the playfield.

I also use a soft brush to brush all the bits of novus and cloth pieces
off the playfield -- just brush it down the drain at the bottom of the
playfield.  It'll drop down to the bottom of the cabinet for easy cleanup.

Check your light bulbs for cleaning ... under-playfield bulbs will get very
dirty from solenoid dust, etc.  Wipe 'em clean and see how much brighter
your inlays get !

Adjustments :

not much here ... but note that slingshot switchs should be space 1/16"
apart.

Common light bulbs are 555 and 44's as well as 89 and 906 flashlamps.

All switch diodes are 1N4004, coil/flashlamp drivers are TIP120's, hi-power
coils are TIP120/TIP36C pairs.

Flipper power drivers are TIP120/TIP36C pairs, flipper holding drivers
are TIP120's.

Caveats :

Never ever ever get RC-88 rubber cleaner on playfields ... it'll eat through
Diamondplate and strip paint right off.    Never use any spray or cleaner
on cracked paint -- it'll seep under and the paint will flake off.

Novus cleaner can also be used to clean playfield plastics (undersides too).

Anything I forgot ?

- jonathan