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How to covert an ordinary table model  AM radio,  or clock radio,  or any old 
                  transistor radio into a shortwave receiver. 
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Well,  you may  ask, why be  limited   to converting  a  *car radio* into  a
shortwave receiver?   A car radio does have a few non-trivial disadvantages.
It comes in  an unattractive,  even clunky  metal case,  not really suitable
for display.  You need to  build a separate power supply for it,  and though
details on doing this without   much    effort  are in  the  enclosed   file
POWERSUP.TXT, it does  involve extra  work   and expense, not to mention the
extra space that the power supply case and external speaker hog.

Say you salvage this nice old clock radio out of your attic. The clock still
keeps time fine and  the radio pulls in local AM stations nicely without too
much static. Hey, wouldn't it be nice to  be able to tune shortwave stations
on it?

Yes, it is  possible to convert many AM  radios to shortwave receivers using
the converter described in the enclosed CONVERT.TXT file.  The disadvantages
relative to a car radio  are that the  converted  AM radio will  be somewhat
more subject to interference  from strong AM  broadcasters  plus  noise  and
static, and it  may also be necessary to   take extra  precautions with  the
"transformerless" power supplies of some older table model  and clock radios
(see below). The  main advantages are reduced parts count and lower cost. It
is quite possible to   convert an AM radio  for a  total cost of $5 or less,
depending on how many of the needed parts are on hand.

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                               The procedure:

[Ignore all references  in the following section  to AC or AC power supply if
you are working with a battery-powered portable radio.]

Make certain the AM radio you will be working on is unplugged from the power
line.  Open the case of the radio by  removing    the screws  that hold   it
together. Save the screws. You may have to disable or outwit spring clips or
other clever devices  in order  to  get to the circuit board. Disregard  the
warning that there are no "user serviceable parts inside". [Note that if you
are working on an AC-powered  radio and  do not know what you are doing, you
can cause damage to  the  radio   and your  test equipment,  not to  mention
hurting yourself. Get experienced help if you  are new to this, or stay with
battery-powered radios,  where the amount of damage  you can do is limited.]

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First,  you MUST  determine  whether  the AC-powered radio  has  an   unsafe
"transformerless" power supply. If the radio has an AC power cord   and  the
power cord does not have a  "polarized" plug (three-prong or  two-prong with
one prong wider so  that it can be plugged in only way),   and if  the radio
has no step-down or   isolation power transformer, then  it   has an  UNSAFE
power supply and extra  precautions MUST  be  taken. If    you  cannot fully
understand what has just  been said, then STOP  and do NOT proceed   further
without supervision by a technician or experienced electronics hobbyist.  AC
power can be dangerous!

If the radio has an unsafe power supply  and the  power cord does not have a
polarized plug, this condition must be  remedied before  proceeding further.
Replace the unpolarized  plug with a polarized  one  oriented so that the AC
power "neutral" always connects to the chassis and/or  circuit board ground,
and NEVER the AC "hot". Alternately,  you may add  an isolation  transformer
that completely isolates   the chassis and circuit  board from the AC  line.
Doing so requires measuring AC   line  voltages with  a   voltmeter,   not a
procedure for beginners, and therefore    details of   this are deliberately
omitted. If you do  not know how  to do   this, STOP  and get  help  from  a
technician or experienced  electronics hobbyist. Or better yet,  work with a
battery-powered  portable radio,  and you can avoid this problem completely.

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You will need to locate three points on  the  circuit board  or  nearby: the
circuit ground, the filtered DC voltage, and the point where you will inject
the output from   the SW converter.   This requires a DC voltmeter or multi-
tester and your powers of observation.

Finding the circuit  ground is the easiest.   The ground is usually identif-
iable as a large "run" around the etched  side of  the  PC  board.   Another
sure bet is  the negative terminal  of the  highest  value miniature  filter
capacitor on the circuit board, usually  100 - 500  �F. As always, stay away
from the AC power supply.


The +DC voltage you need is at or  near the  positive terminal of the  above
mentioned filter capacitor.  Now you   will  need    to power up the  radio,
carefully.  WARNING: KEEP FINGERS  AND TOOLS AWAY FROM  THE AC POWER SECTION
OR YOU WILL BE EXTREMELY  SORRY!  Put the voltmeter on the 20V  DC scale and
measure the voltage between what  you think  are the ground and +DC  points.
Your reading should be in the range of about 6 to 15 volts  DC. If you  have
an oscilloscope handy, you might wish to confirm your diagnosis by verifying
that there is no AC ripple between the two points, to   make sure you have a
filtered DC voltage available to power the SW converter.  If you do not have
a scope,  you can test this using an ordinary red LED  with a series current
limiting resistor, about 470 �. The LED should burn bright and flicker free.
If you find AC ripple on the AM tuner PC board, this means the radio has  an
UNSAFE power supply, and  you MUST remedy this by the procedure given in the
previous section.

Unplug the radio. Now solder a black wire to the ground point  and a red one
to the +DC power  you just found.    These two wires you  now attach to  the
ground and +V power  points on the SW  converter.   You  may do this using a
mini plug and jack combination that  will  hook to the case you install  the
converter into.  The SW  converter  will now  be conveniently powered by the
radio and need no external power supply or battery.

The radio  is still unplugged.   Make certain that  there is a wire  leading
from the output  of  the  SW converter. Solder one on if necessary.  Connect
the black and red power leads  from the radio PC board to the  SW converter.
Carefully plug the radio into the outlet and  turn on   the power, observing
all precautions. Put the  radio on the AM band if it is not so already. Turn
up the volume  and twist the  tuning knob. You should hear local AM stations
as usual.   If this is not the  case,  shut off  the  power and  check  your
connections.

Now comes the tricky part.   Your AM radio  receives AM  stations  with  the
converter powered up, but not yet   injecting  the  down-converted shortwave
signals into the radio's RF   stage.  You will need to find, mostly by trial
and error, the point at which to   inject the signals. Attach  a "long-wire"
antenna (5' or longer) to the antenna input of the SW converter and insert a
tested crystal into the socket for it on the  converter. Now locate the   AM
radio's tuning capacitor, a small plastic square connected by a small  shaft
to the tuning knob on the radio. The tuning capacitor will have 4 -  6 leads
attaching it to the PC tuner board.  Touch the bare end of the wire from the
output of the SW converter to each  of these leads in  turn,  hold  it    in
contact and twist the tuning   knob of the radio. At  one or  more of  these
leads you should hear the bleeps and static and voices  speaking in  unknown
languages. There's your culprit. The  SW converter  output  connects to this
point. Solder a wire there. [Note: this part of the procedure should be done
at night, when short wave reception is best, and using a crystal for a known
SW band.]

Turn off the power to the radio. Now consider whether   to  install the   SW
converter inside the   AM radio or to house it in its  own  case externally.
External mounting has the  advantage  of making  it   easier to   change the
crystal (and therefore the band of    reception).   Internal  mounting makes
everything nice and neat, but you  gotta unscrew and open up the  radio case
to switch frequency bands. My personal  preference  is the  external  mount,
with every lead hooked up to plug 'n jack sets.

Reassemble the radio and turn on the power  to see if it   still works.   If
not, check all leads and joints,  and try again.  If you have  it   working,
mount everything neatly by the method of your choice.  Now you can enjoy the
pleasures of shortwave listening (SWL) on the cheap.

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Notes:

(1)     For adequate reception you will need a  "long wire" antenna at least
        4' long.  A whip antenna may be long enough, depending on your loca-
        tion.  Best reception on most SW bands is after nightfall.

(2)     Converting an AM radio  to short wave is a relatively simple project
        as such things go.   However, it is emphatically NOT recommended for
        beginners,  especially if working with an AC-powered radio.   Do not
        hesitate to get help from someone more experienced if you are beyond
        your depth. Do not under any circumstances take risks with AC power!